JF Ptak Science Books Post 307
As a vegetarian of 16 years living in a house of life-long vegetarians, the antiquarian recipe that I stumbled upon in a “Lady’s Book” (of 1885) called for scraping the hair from calves’ feet–it gave me consider pause. But from such humble beginnings (like William S. Burroughs Naked Lunch grandfather’s small business bumping itself up and along to become IBM) are bigger things born.

And that’s been the story of Jell-O, a product of extraordinarily modest and not-pretty means, morphing itself and the Postum Company over a relatively short period of time (from 1895 to1925) into the megamonolth: the General Foods Corporation. “America’s Most Famous Dessert” got its third (or better) start on life in Le Roy, New York, under the creative hands of Mr. & Mrs. Pearle B. & May Wait (true!), who took sugar, powdered gelatin and artificial fruit flavors to make a concoction May called “Jell-O”. But her reach was none-too-grand compared to that of Frank Woodward, who bought the company from her and created the demand for this ‘food” and who ultimately created General Foods with it. (Its an old story: consumable and sellable product with no consumers: Marlboro cigarettes started out as a specialized cig for “ladies” and failed; the same cigarette was then re-marketed as a testosterone-laden product and then succeeded beyond all wild expectation, killing millions of its consumers in the process.) In any event Ms. Wait trumped another New York state resident, Charles Knox, in the race to develop a pretty and tasty granulated/[powdered gelatin desert mix. “Knox’s Gelatine”, originally made with calves’-foot jelly, was a little earlier to the table than Mrs. Wait, but failed to properly develop his product. It also suffered its own “purity” by not having any sugar in it.
Jell-O-like bits have been around for a long time—but creating this sort of gelatin (and “delicacy”) was a time-consuming task, involving the above-mentioned scraping unpleasantness, long boiling of the scraped stuff, filtering and so on to achieve—once cooled and dried—sheets of clearish delight that would look like what we call Jell-O. But as I said the history of this product is quite extended—for example there is a long Renaissance culinary sculpting history of gelatin, but that piece of history still awaits its vast chronicler. And illustrator: evidently the molds for the gelatin product were extensive and the creativity for its use boundless, with castles and communities and portraits being produced out of. The use of gelatin as a binder and preservative is actually ancient, and finds itself at least as far back as ancient Greece.
Our Tom Thumb connection with Jell-O comes in the form of Peter Cooper, who is generally seen as the American manufacturer of the first steam locomotive (The engine ran successfully on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad on August 28, 1830), and who (around 1845) was in fact very interested in processing different sorts of gelatin consumables in addition to creating the first locomotive, and also running for the presidency and many other things…the gelatin creation had to wait.
But the broadest brushwork on the developing history of Jell-O is that same brush that basically closed the American West and ended the cattle drive and most of the great Lonesome Dove cowboy traditions. No, not barbed
wire—it was refrigeration. The creation of refrigerated railroad cars meant that all that the cowboys needed to do was get their stock to a nearby railhead and modern technology would do the rest, the RR pulling the slaughtered stock to St. Louis or (more likely) Chicago, thus ending the Long Drive. The home refrigerator enabled the creation of Jell-O much as we see it today. (And I say that with as little inflection as possible, as hundreds of millions of people have enjoyed this sugary dried gelatin ensemble, so it must work to the good somewhere, at least as a cheap sugar delivery system)

As for me, if it isn’t a liquid, I don’t want the food on my plate to continue on in its own expectant dance after I get through moving it myself. I also don’t want my food to behave like the coming-to-rest motion of a beloved (?) American TV icon.
But that doesn’t mean that I can’t take a moment here to stop and appreciate the bizarre connections between Jell-O and the Outside World.
Visit the Jell-O Museum/Gallery HERE.